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Embrace Artisan Fashion For Autumn

OCT 30, 2019

Seven designers who have displayed artisanship for AW19

Olivier Rousteing made an impact with floral embellishments and embroidery at Balmain. Crafted with black and white ruffled organza, and clustered PVC "petals," the resulting look is of elegant volume, enhanced further by origami-structured pagoda-roof skirts.

Sarah Burton designed evening dresses with intricate lace-like embroideries of birds for Alexander McQueen's AW19 collection. Tiers of ruffles were another artisanal feature, with dresses of tuffeta constructed with tucks at the bodice giving way to sculpted fabric, the volume manipulated to resemble a rose.

Hermes, once again, pushed the boundaries of artisanship within leather design. "I want to turn leather into almost a textile," said the brand's womenswear designer Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski. This was most notable with the contoured seaming of a glossy calfskin shift dress, created by Hermès' talented team of craftsmen.

Pierpaolo Piccioli's attention to detail was manifold for Valentino's AW19 collection. Notable artisanship came in the form of velvet butterfly appliqués delicately lined with sequins, seemingly hovering on a sheer blush tulle dress.

Balenciaga's Demna Gvasalia focused on tailoring for AW19 with a surprisingly sober collection of suiting that concentrated on the shoulder. Expert tailoring tricks were applied to create the pointed and extra-broad shoulder structures, which struck a balance between drama and subtlety.

Kim Jones made a strong argument for men's haute couture on the Dior Homme AW19 runway by updating classic suiting with draping techniques borrowed from women's couture. Elegant silk sashes weaved under and over lapels, wrapping the figure with louche sophistication.

Louis Vuitton's AW19 menswear collection proved that there was more depth to Virgil Abloh's design canon than eye-grabbing streetwear codes. Luxurious fabrication and artisan techniques appeared as fully sequin-embellished shirts and sheer long-line dress shirts with velvet print.

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