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Master tailor Noriyuki Ueki blends bespoke Italian suiting with Japanese aesthetics
How to order a true bespoke suit. We speak to Japanese tailor Noriyuki Ueki from Sartoria Ciccio ahead of his trunk show at The Armoury
Noriyuki Ueki is one of a new breed of Japanese tailors who combines skills learned in Italy with the sense of artisanship for which Japan is renowned. While reinvigorating the tradition of bespoke tailoring in Japan at his atelier Sartoria Ciccio, the master craftsman will bring a slice of sartorial style to men’s haberdasher The Armoury at LANDMARK in the new year.
Highly regarded by Japan’s fashion elite, Ciccio's house style is that of traditional Naples, soft and classically proportioned, but with a clean, precise Japanese focus on details such as the shoulder, neckline, and chest. Ueki, better known his Italian nickname, Ciccio, shares his perspective and advice on bespoke tailoring and tips for the perfectly-fitted suit.
Why did you choose Naples for an apprenticeship?
I felt that Neapolitan style was the most stylish and soft in Italy. I was certain that when the Neapolitan technique, aesthetics and Japanese craftsmanship combine, it would create something fantastic.
What is the most challenging part about learning the craft of tailoring?
There are so many challenges and difficulties in this work. Drawing patterns, sewing techniques, fitting… all are challenging!
What are some of the questions you ask customers when they come for an appointment?
I ask about their taste in clothing (colours, silhouette, fitting, etc).
What is the single most important thing when buying a suit?
Whether you think it's a good looking one or not.
Which type of suit do you think every man should have in their closet?
A navy, solid suit.
What elements give your suits an individual identity? Tell us about your house style.
It's soft. No vents, no shoulder paddings. It gives a sharp impression.
What is your definition of a well-dressed man?
He understands himself well, he knows what makes him look good. He knows how to pick an outfit according to the TPO (Japanese abbreviation for Time, Place and Occasion).
What are your words of wisdom for living well?
My style of work is to do our best so that my customers will be satisfied with every single piece of garment that I make.
Sartoria Ciccio will be at The Armoury 9-10 February for bespoke fittings and commissions. For an appointment call +852 2810 4990 or email firstname.lastname@example.org