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The new boys on the block are making a statement alongside menswear favourites to create up-to-the-minute statement style for men
Masculinity reigned at Kent & Curwen for Spring/Summer 2017 as creative director Daniel Kearns went back through the brand’s archives, along with part-owner David Beckham, to create something truly British yet modern for today’s discerning gent. Kent & Curwen has a rich history and strong heritage spanning 90 years and the pair had plenty to work with, in the end bringing back such stalwarts as the heritage stripe, regimental motifs and embroidered patching, reaffirming the brand’s ties to its English heartland while addressing how men around the world want to dress today by reinventing tradition.
Over at Cerruti 1881, the recently appointed chief creative officer Jason Basmajian launched his second collection for the label, characterised by a light feel, pale palette and camou-foliage. Embracing a softer look and a relaxed sophistication, he drew on the wisdom of nature to tie in with the season of rebirth, encouraging men to consider a lighter look for spring.
“The colours for this season are soft, muted and sophisticated tones favoured by Mr Cerruti. Dusty pastels, mineral shades and neutrals. Cuts are soft, relaxed with more drape, volume and movement to fabric. I love the contrast of tailoring with fluidity,” says Basmajian. The man behind the reinvention of Savile Row tailor Gieves & Hawkes, Basmajian hopes to bring a similar elevation in style to Cerruti, while also expanding into new realms, this season introducing a new denim line for sophisticated gents looking for something elegant yet contemporary.
Long-established helmsmen of menswear brands made bold moves this season, too. In a period of global upheaval, Paul Smith chose to focus on peace and positivity with his spring/summer collection, incorporating the brightest hues as he reminisced on his first experience of London in the 1960s, channeling the vibrancy and colour of that first Notting Hill Carnival in 1966. Lightweight, effortless and sporty with a distinctly confident use of vivid hues that add bursts of optimism to these challenging times, Paul Smith’s new collection embodies hope for a happier and more peaceful 2017.
From London to the world, travel played a role in several menswear collections, not least at Louis Vuitton where Artistic Director Kim Jones put the beat of Africa at the heart of his spring/summer offering, playing at the same time on Louis Vuitton’s heritage as a luggage purveyor. It wasn’t all zebra prints and tribal motifs – though there was some of that – but the addition of a certain sense of street chic that made this collection wearable for the modern man.
Alessandro Michele, too, dreamt of travel at Gucci, combining disparate cultures, travelling through time, and incorporating a wide range of references into his designs. “This is my idea of travel; to travel but not leave for anywhere, and dream about somewhere you don’t know,” says Michele of a collection for which he delved deep into the Gucci archives, choosing eclectic aspects of the past to create a fresh vision for the future, to be grasped by bold and confident fellas the world over.
Menswear collections for the season together paint a picture of today’s man. There is no one-size-fits-all, but there’s something to speak to every style-conscious gent at LANDMARK MEN and which every gent can use to make a statement. Choose the one that suits you and say it in style.