#FashionForeword with Tina Leung

OCT 19, 2015
Bruno Frisoni has been creative director at venerable French shoe, bag and accessories house Roger Vivier for more than a decade. Previously heading up his own eponymous label, Frisoni is known for returning Vivier’s famed stiletto heel and buckle to the limelight with sexy, fantastical yet incredibly wearable and comfortable shoes.

When did you know you wanted to be in fashion?
I wasn’t good at school. I didn’t want to listen to anybody, and that has never changed. I stopped going to school without saying anything to my parents. When they found out, they realised I had not been happy in what I was doing. So my family decided to go to Paris, and that I would go to art school.

I’ve always loved singers, actors, people, glamour . . . I was always looking at the way people presented themselves. I would spend days alone drawing.

The autumn/winter collection is both masculine and feminine. What’s behind this duality?
In Roger Vivier’s story [this season], there is one icon and that’s Catherine Deneuve. She embodies the style of the Saint Laurent period, of Belle de Jour mainly. She’s exactly what many young women want to be in their heads: witty inside, but polite outside. Strong, wearing the “in” clothes, maybe, but in a very proper way.

I wanted to propose a new take on Belle de Jour. That’s why I brought these knee-high legging boots with the buckle, instead of the proper décolleté. Today, if you think of a beautiful woman’s dress, you might put sneakers with it. If you wear jeans, you would break things up with ultra-feminine, evening-style heels.

Tell us about Rendez-Vous, originally launched as Roger Vivier’s haute couture collection.

It’s actually something of a revolution for me. We started Rendez-Vous because I didn’t feel like couture should be a part of Roger Vivier[’s main collection]. I felt we needed to change the format. It’s been quite successful but it was difficult to travel with the collection during trunk shows and to catch the client at the right moments.

So we decided that, after its success, it had to be part of the main collection. Rendez-Vous spring/summer 2016 is still Rendez-Vous, with a focus on the details and the workmanship, but it is closer to the main collection and not limited in quantity.

If you could pick one item from Rendez-Vous and one from AW15, what would they be?

The Ecstasy [from Rendez-Vous SS16] and the gold knee-high Grace flat boot for AW15.Looking ahead, is there anything you hope or want to achieve before, say, the end of time?

I’m a day-by-day person, so I never think of the end of time. Somebody came into the studio recently. She repeated a phrase she had heard somewhere: “Paradise is now.” It’s not yesterday. It’s not tomorrow. It’s now. I think it’s a beautiful motto, because you have to be happy with what’s happening in the moment.

Words by Tina Leung